Field guides for travel trailer buyers
Here’s the thing I kept running into. Almost everything you need to avoid a bad trailer purchase is already written down somewhere — in recall filings, federal regulations, warranty documents, manufacturer footnotes. It’s just boring enough that nobody reads it. Including, quite often, the person selling you the trailer.
So I read it, and I wrote down what’s in there. Every number has a source and a date, and when a figure comes from someone with something to sell — a dealer, a shop, an inspector — I say so, because you should weigh it differently.
I’m not going to talk you out of buying a trailer. I’d just like you to know what to check first.
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The number that decides it
Published tow ratings are real numbers from a real test — SAE J2807. They also describe a truck loaded with a 150 lb driver, a 150 lb passenger and nothing else. No back seat, no cooler, no dog, no tools in the bed.
Ford says so in its own towing guide: “Weight of additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted from this weight.”
The figure that actually governs your life is the payload number on the yellow label inside your driver’s door. Here is what happens to it when you hitch up a 7,500 lb trailer.
Worked example, Part One
A half-ton crew cab with 1,570 lb of payload, towing 7,500 lb loaded
Over payload in the driveway with nothing loaded — while the window still advertises thousands of pounds of apparent headroom. No hitch, airbag or helper spring changes a weight rating.
What getting it wrong costs
These are the figures the guides will actually stand behind, with the kind of source each one came from. Any single line here is larger than both guides together.
The arithmetic of one bad Saturday
Reported US figures, 2026
Every figure above carries its source, the way it does inside the books. Where a number comes from a dealer, a shop or an inspector — someone with a commercial interest — it says so, because you should weigh it differently. Prices change; verify locally.
The guides
Both are instant PDF downloads, set in large type for comfortable reading, and both carry the same seven-day refund.
35 pages · five parts · PDF
$29
7-day refund · instant download
14 pages · printable & fillable · PDF
$19
7-day refund · instant download
49 pages · two PDFs
$40save $8
7-day refund · instant download
Part Five · the method
The RV world runs on repeated advice. Someone says it on a forum, someone puts it in a video, and within a year it’s common knowledge. Some of it is true. Several of the loudest ones are not. This is exactly how those pages read.
“The advertised tow rating isn’t the number that matters.”
Ford’s own towing guide states that maximum weights assume a 150 lb driver and passenger, and that options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted. Payload is the binding constraint for most half-ton owners.
“Your insurance will deny your claim if you’re overweight.”
Standard US personal auto policy forms contain no over-GVWR exclusion. The article this claim is usually traced to actually debunks it. What is real: operating without the licence class your combination requires.
“A weight-distribution hitch increases your capacity.”
It redistributes load across axles. It does not raise payload, GVWR, GCWR, axle ratings, tyre capacity or the tow rating — and the hardware itself subtracts from payload.
“70% of retirees regret buying an RV within a year.”
No study supports this. The identical 70% appears attached to RVs, motorhomes, camper vans and catamarans interchangeably — which is what a content template looks like, not what data looks like.
“The dealer has to fix open recalls before selling it to me.”
True for new vehicles: federal law prohibits delivery once the dealer has notice. Not true for used — federal law neither requires the dealer to check nor prohibits the sale. Run the VIN yourself.
“‘Four season’ means it’s built for winter.”
There is no ANSI, NFPA or RVIA standard defining the term. What is checkable: whether the underbelly is enclosed and heated, whether the tanks have pads, and what the insulation actually is. Ask for specifics; ignore the badge.
+ nineteen more, each with the source you can go and read yourself.
Download it, go out to the driveway and do the payload arithmetic on your own truck, and take the Checklist to a lot. If it doesn’t change a decision you were about to make, email within seven days and you get every cent back.
No forms, no “what went wrong”, no keeping you on a list. The refund window is longer than it takes to read both guides, and the whole point of the books is that nobody should be rushing you into anything — including me.
Questions
That’s the best time to read it. Part One works in both directions: it tells you which trailers a given truck rules out, and which truck a given trailer actually requires. Read before you fall in love with a floorplan and it saves you the whole problem.
Mostly, yes. Weight ratings, the FMVSS door label, NHTSA recall lookups, lender age caps and licence classes are all US. The physical inspection in the Checklist — walls, seams, floor, tyres, slides — applies to a laminated trailer anywhere.
Parts of it, and the book says so on its first page. Tow ratings change with model years, prices change monthly, laws change by state. That’s why every figure carries a date and a source, and why the book tells you where to verify it yourself rather than asking you to trust me.
It’s built for it. Ten numbered pages, each one laid out to fit a single sheet so no section ever splits across two, with printable checkboxes and ruled lines with room to write by hand. It’s also a fillable PDF, so you can type into it on a phone and save it instead.
Instant PDF download after checkout through Gumroad, set on US Letter. It opens on a phone, a tablet or a computer, and the reference pages and checklists are made to print.
No, and I’d rather say so. The Manual is the reasoning; the Checklist is the form you complete standing in front of a specific trailer. The Manual cross-references the Checklist’s pages, so together they work as one thing — but each stands alone, and if you only ever read Part One you’ll have got your money’s worth.
Seven days, no questions asked, on any of the three. Email and you get every cent back.
One last thing
Go and look at it before you go anywhere near a lot. If the number surprises you, the rest of the book will too.
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