The Trailer Truth
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Field guides for travel trailer buyers

By the time most buyers find out the truck can’t tow it, they’ve already signed.

Here’s the thing I kept running into. Almost everything you need to avoid a bad trailer purchase is already written down somewhere — in recall filings, federal regulations, warranty documents, manufacturer footnotes. It’s just boring enough that nobody reads it. Including, quite often, the person selling you the trailer.

So I read it, and I wrote down what’s in there. Every number has a source and a date, and when a figure comes from someone with something to sell — a dealer, a shop, an inspector — I say so, because you should weigh it differently.

I’m not going to talk you out of buying a trailer. I’d just like you to know what to check first.

Instant PDF download · Secure checkout via Gumroad · 7-day refund, no questions asked

The number that decides it


The window sticker says 11,000 lb. Your door sticker says you’re already over.

Published tow ratings are real numbers from a real test — SAE J2807. They also describe a truck loaded with a 150 lb driver, a 150 lb passenger and nothing else. No back seat, no cooler, no dog, no tools in the bed.

Ford says so in its own towing guide: “Weight of additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted from this weight.”

The figure that actually governs your life is the payload number on the yellow label inside your driver’s door. Here is what happens to it when you hitch up a 7,500 lb trailer.

Worked example, Part One

A half-ton crew cab with 1,570 lb of payload, towing 7,500 lb loaded

Payload, from the door sticker1,570 lb
Driver and passenger−340 lb
Gear in the bed−200 lb
Tongue weight at 15%The trailer presses down on the truck. It counts against payload, not against tow rating.−1,125 lb
Remaining−95 lb

Over payload in the driveway with nothing loaded — while the window still advertises thousands of pounds of apparent headroom. No hitch, airbag or helper spring changes a weight rating.

What getting it wrong costs


One mistake, priced against two books.

These are the figures the guides will actually stand behind, with the kind of source each one came from. Any single line here is larger than both guides together.

The arithmetic of one bad Saturday

Reported US figures, 2026

Roof resealing labour, about ten hours Owner-reported dealer quote ~$2,300
Full roof membrane replacement Owner-reported dealer quote ~$12,000
The independent inspection people skip Inspector-published pricing — a commercially interested source $700–$1,500
Year one of a new trailer’s depreciation J.D. Power: a travel trailer holds roughly 60% at five years, and year one is the steepest part thousands
A trailer your truck cannot legally tow No accessory fixes this a different truck
Both guides, read before you go $40

Every figure above carries its source, the way it does inside the books. Where a number comes from a dealer, a shop or an inspector — someone with a commercial interest — it says so, because you should weigh it differently. Prices change; verify locally.

The guides


Read one, or work through both.

Both are instant PDF downloads, set in large type for comfortable reading, and both carry the same seven-day refund.

The Trailer Truth Manual, open to a page from Part Five

The Trailer Truth Manual

35 pages · five parts · PDF

$29

  • Part One — the truck. The payload arithmetic, worked twice, and why it eliminates half the lot before you visit.
  • Part Two — the build. How a laminated wall fails, what Azdel does and doesn’t mean, and reading tyre date codes.
  • Part Three — the paperwork. The resealing clause in your warranty, recalls, and where a dealer’s obligation stops.
  • Part Four — the money. Depreciation, the current soft market, and what actually holds value.
  • Part Five — twenty-five claims, rated.
Get the Manual — $29

7-day refund · instant download

Fillable PDF
The Walkaway Checklist, open to a ruled inspection page

The Walkaway Checklist

14 pages · printable & fillable · PDF

$19

  • Ten numbered pages, each one built to fit a single sheet so nothing splits mid-inspection.
  • Real checkboxes and ruled lines with room to write — or type into them, it’s a fillable form.
  • The tow-vehicle maths laid out as a form you complete before you visit.
  • The ten questions to ask out loud, with space for the answers in writing.
  • The ten conditions that mean walk away regardless of price.
Get the Checklist — $19

7-day refund · instant download

Part Five · the method


Twenty-five claims. Each one checked, each one rated.

The RV world runs on repeated advice. Someone says it on a forum, someone puts it in a video, and within a year it’s common knowledge. Some of it is true. Several of the loudest ones are not. This is exactly how those pages read.

01

“The advertised tow rating isn’t the number that matters.”

Ford’s own towing guide states that maximum weights assume a 150 lb driver and passenger, and that options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted. Payload is the binding constraint for most half-ton owners.

Verified
02

“Your insurance will deny your claim if you’re overweight.”

Standard US personal auto policy forms contain no over-GVWR exclusion. The article this claim is usually traced to actually debunks it. What is real: operating without the licence class your combination requires.

Myth
03

“A weight-distribution hitch increases your capacity.”

It redistributes load across axles. It does not raise payload, GVWR, GCWR, axle ratings, tyre capacity or the tow rating — and the hardware itself subtracts from payload.

Myth
09

“70% of retirees regret buying an RV within a year.”

No study supports this. The identical 70% appears attached to RVs, motorhomes, camper vans and catamarans interchangeably — which is what a content template looks like, not what data looks like.

Myth
14

“The dealer has to fix open recalls before selling it to me.”

True for new vehicles: federal law prohibits delivery once the dealer has notice. Not true for used — federal law neither requires the dealer to check nor prohibits the sale. Run the VIN yourself.

Partial
18

“‘Four season’ means it’s built for winter.”

There is no ANSI, NFPA or RVIA standard defining the term. What is checkable: whether the underbelly is enclosed and heated, whether the tanks have pads, and what the insulation actually is. Ask for specifics; ignore the badge.

Myth

+ nineteen more, each with the source you can go and read yourself.

7
Day refund

Read the whole thing first. Then decide.

Download it, go out to the driveway and do the payload arithmetic on your own truck, and take the Checklist to a lot. If it doesn’t change a decision you were about to make, email within seven days and you get every cent back.

No forms, no “what went wrong”, no keeping you on a list. The refund window is longer than it takes to read both guides, and the whole point of the books is that nobody should be rushing you into anything — including me.

Questions


Before you buy either one.

I haven’t bought the truck or the trailer yet. Is this still useful?

That’s the best time to read it. Part One works in both directions: it tells you which trailers a given truck rules out, and which truck a given trailer actually requires. Read before you fall in love with a floorplan and it saves you the whole problem.

Is this US-specific?

Mostly, yes. Weight ratings, the FMVSS door label, NHTSA recall lookups, lender age caps and licence classes are all US. The physical inspection in the Checklist — walls, seams, floor, tyres, slides — applies to a laminated trailer anywhere.

Will this go out of date?

Parts of it, and the book says so on its first page. Tow ratings change with model years, prices change monthly, laws change by state. That’s why every figure carries a date and a source, and why the book tells you where to verify it yourself rather than asking you to trust me.

Is the Checklist really printable?

It’s built for it. Ten numbered pages, each one laid out to fit a single sheet so no section ever splits across two, with printable checkboxes and ruled lines with room to write by hand. It’s also a fillable PDF, so you can type into it on a phone and save it instead.

What format is it, and how do I get it?

Instant PDF download after checkout through Gumroad, set on US Letter. It opens on a phone, a tablet or a computer, and the reference pages and checklists are made to print.

Do I need both?

No, and I’d rather say so. The Manual is the reasoning; the Checklist is the form you complete standing in front of a specific trailer. The Manual cross-references the Checklist’s pages, so together they work as one thing — but each stands alone, and if you only ever read Part One you’ll have got your money’s worth.

What’s the refund policy?

Seven days, no questions asked, on any of the three. Email and you get every cent back.

One last thing

The label inside your driver’s door settles most of this in about ninety seconds.

Go and look at it before you go anywhere near a lot. If the number surprises you, the rest of the book will too.

Instant PDF · Gumroad checkout · 7-day refund